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Architecture of Bhutan   CHORTENS
Text and Photographs by Robert Dompnier

However, the commonest structures in Bhutan are not the great fortresses but chortens, which are known as stupas in India. There are thousands of these monuments all over the country, ranging in size from the very small to the very large. Witnesses to the profound faith of the Bhutanese, they can be found at crossroads, near a dzong or a monastery and on high mountain passes. They all have an indefinable presence, radiating serenity and peace. Since they are religious monuments, they are always built in a precise way, enabling the builder to earn many merits.

A chorten is constructed around the long piece of wood of square section, known as a sokshing. Covered with decoration and inscribed with sacred texts, this represents the vital principle, the "life- spirit" of the chorten and is hence the most important element. The builders then erect a stone and wooden structure of characteristic shape around this central post. At each stage of the work, special ceremonies and rituals are performed. In its essence, each chorten has a precise symbolism, the meaning of which can be interpreted at several levels.

It is first of all a monument commemorating the death (Parinirvana) of the Buddha Sakyamuni. But it also symbolises the universe, which consists of a combination of five elements. The bottom square section corresponds to the earth. Above is the half globe symbolizing water, while fire is represented by the conical part. A sort of umbrella at the top corresponds to the air. These four material elements are finally absorbed in the subtle element, ether, the essence of the spirit, which is symbolized by a flame rising above a sun and moon. This deep essence of things is seized by means of the Dharma, which leads the adept through the last stages of his spiritual progress towards enlightenment. One of the five Jina or Dhyani-Buddhas, the primordial Buddhas, corresponds to each of these elements. For religious and didactic reasons, the chorten has always been an object of faith and devotion for the entire Buddhist world.

From the architectural point of view, Bhutan's chortens are of several types. Some of them, such as Chendebji or Chorten Kora, follow the model of Bodnath in Nepal. They are huge structures of lime-washed stone. Others are smaller and recall the Tibetan style. Lastly, there are square chortens with four-sided roofs that are pure Bhutanese. In the same way as the dzongs, the upper part decorated with the khemar symbolises a religious structure.

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